Banyan Tree Haveli


Dust. It settled quietly, on the arches of the stone gate that once protected the haveli from the inquisitive eyes of the intruders. Small creepers now rented the crevices of these stone joints and weeds of all kinds flourished here unaware that they have taken abode on the compound of Maharana Uddham Singh's Haveli. The Lasts of the Rana, for he now is without an heir and living his old days in a small community near France and Switzerland border The strong iron gate, which once kept people in awe and would intimidate small village folks who would come to pay respects to the Haveli, decayed slowly. It's iron on the mercy of winds and rain, eroded so much, you could break its bars and hinges by swaying of a stone no bigger than your wrist. When opened its hinges gave a mournful cry of a bygone era and hesitated to nudge forgetting that the strength which once was their pride now was gone and its frail hinges could only cry.

The ground inside, untended, now resembled a dilapidated state, it once was busy keeping VIPs vehicles parked, now tumbleweed ran marathons and sprints on the clue of the breeze. A lone banyan tree surrounded by a platform, which once was the epicenter for all the gossip, that the humble chauffers shared with such relish that it surpassed any form of entertainment available at the time. Often, an urchin would linger close by and would try to get the bite of this forbidden fruit, whereupon one of the chauffeurs would drive them away by curses. The gossip was the only recluse a tired chauffer would resort to and would on no account be deprived of that by the urchins of the household helps.

Now the tree has been standing, taking on wind, rain, and sun, countless times its leaves fell and their places were taken by the new ones, its aerial roots now have made their own leaves thus making the stem impossible to detect. This tree once housed birds of all feathers, their nests were a treasure trove for Haveli's ladies, who would come at dusk, and steal them to decorate their rooms. Sometimes, these ladies would take a small bird or two too, later turning them their pet and playmate, for this was the only good entertainment for them. Haveli forbade them others. The old banyan as it was called in the Haveli, witnessed generations of Ranas take seats in the Haveli. It was a party to many secret rendezvous of Haveli's young ladies where they would meet their lovers and their conversations were now forever stored in the banyan tree, though the wind might entice it to spell it out, it would never betray it and would scowl with temper for forcing it to do so.   Now, a solitary crow has taken up its upper branch as his quarters. This crow now survived on the mice that have taken the control of haveli and would often sun themselves along the border on this ground.

Just in front of the tree was the fountain, its spouts once numbering a hundred and fifty, now was as dry as a desert, it was parched long before the last Rana took the seat at Haveli. small pebbles, rotten wooden sticks littered now in its base, where crystal clear water all filled with lotus and fish of every color graced the Haveli's seat and its guest. It was a sight for sore eyes, now with its broken spouts it only sometimes whistles the tales of Haveli, when wind manages to pass through their hollows.

We have come to the porch of Haveli now, valets elegantly stood here to greet and take the baggage off the wiery guests. The big and stout door guards, with their curved mustaches, in crimson uniforms and knee breeches with leather sandals that resembled shoes equipped with lances inspired fear amongst those who dare think of entering the Haveli with any wrong intent. There are no guards or valets here now, the door is ajar and unguarded for who can steal from history and harm the phantoms that now reside within this wailing Haveli.  

Upon entering the door, you will find a wide courtyard, where people and guests congregate to talk and share news, where small functions of Haveli will be conducted and which will be closed for outsiders when Maharani would have it for herself and the ladies of the haveli. This courtyard had a little fountain at its center and you upon alighting a few steps can experience its measure. surrounded by high platforms on all sides, it looked like a tank. The inner fountain, the only trace of its existence was visible by the solitary broken spout at the center, even the stones which bordered the fountains withered away. There is a famous legend about this inner fountain in the Haveli, it was once known not only for its beauty but also for its gold-capped spouts. the ladies of the haveli would on the festival of lights, light small diyas, and these spouts would glimmer and spread the light in thousand directions. Now there is neither gold nor the light that will be dispersed in thousand directions. 

Before the court the Haveli divided into two, one door led to the ladies wing, and the other to the men's wing and Rana's court. The door which led to the men's wing used to be guarded by trusted lieutenants, who on occasion would not think twice before laying their lives to save Rana, the loyalty was sacred men lived and died for it. The court once housed seven seats, one for the Rana and six for Sardars representing six districts of Mewad. the court was a sight to behold once, draped in crimson silk on its pillar arches, attended by soldiers in uniform, court officials, and the bejeweled throne of the Rana's it was equal to any emperor's seat in grandeur albeit small in size. Here in history the great Rana Chattrasal Singh, outfoxed the Mughals by sheer martial strength, the Rana became a legend for no Rana after Chattrasal could muster such martial strength and would rather rely on diplomacy and small skirmishes to keep the territory which was lessening by generations. War. It was not for the tastes for later Ranas they would rather work via diplomacy, but often their martial spirit would encourage them to skirmishes, whereupon losing they would submit few hectors of territory.  

Behind the court were the men's quarters and the Rana and his elders took abode in the upper level of the Haveli. From this side of the Haveli, you could through its small and latticed windows see the entire town of Udaipur. The seat of Rana of Mewad, it has now sprawled so wide to resemble a big metro city, but its narrow gullies and lanes still reflect the view seen by Rana from the Haveli.

The other door led to the ladies' wing of the Haveli, it was guarded by guards but not men, these were special lady guards trained in martial combat and weaponry to protect the honor of the Haveli, no man could pass these trained soldiers. For them, men were detestable creatures who prayed upon the honor of ladies for petty amusement. now this door, whose wooden boards were once carved by the artisans from Lucknow, looked they had only years before they would fall and be used as fuel to hearths in neighboring scavengers. Upon entering through these doors you would immediately realize that you are entering into a corridor aligned with maids' quarters. these small quarters would house a maid and her children who if boys would be raised till the age of eight, and sent to men's quarters behind the Haveli. Where they would live out their lives as attendants to Rana's. The girls would be raised, groomed to serve the Maharani and her elders and they would later become the next generation of maids. The system worked well as an oiled machine, each cog knowing its place in the Haveli, doing its part, and being replaced by the next cog performing the exact function as before.

The Maharani and her elders would take quarters beyond the kitchen after the corridor. the Kitchen was a busy place in the haveli, for all the meals that went to court and both wings of the Haveli went through the same kitchen. There is a cold heat that now radiates from the kitchen before the kitchen housed seven hearths whose fires burned eternally for there was always some Pakkwaan to be prepared or the guests to be attended to or the children whims to be cared for. The fires never went out, now nothing remains nor the fires, nor the dishes nor the hearths. the only resemblance to this kitchen now comes from the roof, blackened by the eternal smokes and vapors, so thick was the layer of this blacked sod, that it formed crusts and would fall due to its own weight and would litter the floor of the kitchen.

Ladies of the Haveli, took quarters on the upper level and through their latticed windows the main Bazaar would be seen, these bazaar enticed the ladies of the Haveli, who in turn would request Rana to allow merchants in the courtyard whereupon the ladies would flock to the merchant and his wares like bees flying towards the comb. Merchants survived and thrived under the grace of Rana and the incessant shopping of ladies of the Haveli.

Behind the Haveli, Servants quarters were lined along the walls, here the male servants lived their lives serving and attending to the members of Haveli, beyond these quarters was a small garden where they grew necessary vegetables and spices required for the haveli and later upon harvest, would take the produce to the door of the ladies wing.

The Banyan Tree Haveli had a central place in the lives of the people of Udaipur, they all depended and lived by the grace of the Rana, yet Rana's were benevolent and through their court, Rana's ruled Mewar and its six districts. though conservative they allowed free thought in the Haveli within their conceptions of boundaries. People remember Rana's but most recall the famous of Rana's the Chattrasal for many believe he still lingers in the Haveli protecting it from the misadventures of the time.

Nothing lasts, nor will this Haveli, one day it too would be leveled and turned to dust. but the legend of Rana and their rule will live on in the minds and on the tongues of generations to come. For phantoms of history are immortals to the cruelties of time. they live on.


Glossary.

Diyas:- small earthen lamps lit in India on Diwali.

Pakkawan:- Tasty and savory dishes.

Bazaar:- Marketplace.


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